If you're heading out to the wrecks or rock piles, you absolutely need to have a high low rig for sea bass ready to go in your tackle box. It's arguably the most effective way to fill a cooler when these fish are schooling up over structure. There's something incredibly satisfying about dropping a line and feeling those distinct, machine-gun-fire taps on your rod tip, and nothing beats the weight of a double-header when two fish decide to grab your baits at the exact same time.
For anyone who hasn't spent much time bottom fishing, the high low rig—also called a chicken rig in some circles—is pretty much the bread and butter of the sport. It's simple, it doesn't tangle easily if you tie it right, and it puts your bait exactly where the fish are looking for a meal. Sea bass aren't usually picky, but they are competitive, and having two baits in the water at different depths is a total game-changer.
The Basic Anatomy of the Rig
At its core, a high low rig for sea bass is just a leader with two hooks spaced out vertically and a weight at the bottom. The "low" hook usually sits a few inches above the sinker, while the "high" hook sits about 12 to 18 inches above that. This setup allows you to cover two different sections of the water column right off the bottom.
You'll usually want to use a leader that's a bit heavier than your main line. I generally go with 30lb or 40lb fluorocarbon. It's stiff enough to keep the hooks from wrapping around the main line, and it's tough enough to handle the abrasive rocks and wrecks where sea bass love to hide. If you're fishing in really clear water, fluoro is great because it's nearly invisible, but honestly, sea bass are aggressive enough that monofilament works just fine most of the time too.
Why Two Hooks are Better Than One
You might think that using two hooks is just about catching more fish at once, and while that's a huge perk, there's more to it than that. Sea bass are pack hunters. When one fish sees a piece of squid or a clam fluttering in the current, it rushes over to grab it. That commotion attracts other fish in the area.
When you use a high low rig for sea bass, the first fish might hit the bottom hook, but the struggle often triggers a second fish to snap at the top hook. It's a bit of a feeding frenzy on a small scale. Plus, having two hooks gives you a backup. If a pesky bait-stealer like a scup or a small bergall rips the bait off your bottom hook, you still have the top one in play. It keeps you in the "strike zone" longer without having to reel up from 80 feet of water just to rebait.
Choosing the Right Hooks and Weights
Don't overthink the hooks. A standard 2/0 or 3/0 bait holder hook or an Octopus-style hook is usually perfect. If the fish are on the larger side—those "knobbed head" jumbos—you can certainly bump up to a 4/0. Some guys swear by circle hooks because they're self-setting, which is great if you're fishing with someone who isn't great at feeling the bite. Personally, I like a standard J-hook because I enjoy the "swing" and the connection you feel when you set the hook yourself.
As for the weight, it's all about the current. You want the smallest sinker possible that still keeps you holding bottom. If your line is "scoping" out at a 45-degree angle, you aren't fishing effectively. You want that line as vertical as possible. Usually, a 4oz to 8oz bank sinker does the trick, but on a fast-drifting boat or in deep water, you might need to go heavier.
Tying the Rig Yourself
You can buy these pre-made at any bait shop, but there's a certain pride in tying your own. Plus, it's cheaper. The most common way to tie a high low rig for sea bass is using dropper loops.
Start with a piece of leader about four feet long. Tie a large loop at the bottom for your sinker—this makes it easy to swap weights if the current picks up. Then, tie two dropper loops about 15 inches apart. The trick with dropper loops is to keep them short; if the loops are too long, the hooks will tangle around the main leader. Once your loops are tied, just thread the loop through the eye of the hook, pass the hook through the loop, and pull it tight. Simple, fast, and very effective.
If you don't like dropper loops, you can use small three-way swivels, but that adds more hardware to the rig. In my experience, the fewer "extras" you have on the line, the less chance there is for something to snag on the bottom or get tangled in the net.
Baiting Up for Success
You've got your rig tied, your sinker is on, and you're over the wreck. Now, what do you put on those hooks? The classic choice is salted squid strips. Squid is tough, stays on the hook well, and sea bass absolutely love it. I like to cut my strips into a long "V" shape so they flutter in the current like a small baitfish.
Fresh clams are another top-tier choice, especially for bigger fish. The only downside is that clams are soft and get picked off easily by smaller fish. If you're using clam, try to thread the "foot" or the tougher part of the clam onto the hook multiple times so it stays put.
Lately, I've been having a ton of success using Berkley Gulp! on a high low rig for sea bass. A 4-inch swimming mullet in chartreuse or pink glow can sometimes out-fish real bait, especially when the fish are aggressive. The best part is that you don't have to keep rebaiting every two minutes.
Techniques for the Best Results
The most important thing to remember when fishing a high low rig is to keep your sinker on the bottom. You should feel that "thump" every time you let out a little slack. However, you don't want to just let it sit there dead. Occasionally lifting the rod tip and dropping it back down creates movement that mimics a wounded crab or fish, which often triggers a strike.
When you feel that first tap, don't swing like you're trying to hit a home run. Sea bass have relatively soft mouths compared to something like a blackfish. A steady, firm lift is usually enough to bury the hook. If you feel weight but no "fight," wait a second—that's often the signal that a second fish is about to grab the other hook.
Dealing with Snags and Structure
Since sea bass live in the "nasty stuff"—rocks, reef balls, and old sunken ships—you are going to get snagged. It's just part of the game. One little trick I use with my high low rig for sea bass is to use a lighter piece of mono to attach the sinker to the bottom loop.
If your sinker gets wedged in a rock, the light line will snap, and you'll get your hooks and your leader back. It's much better to lose a lead weight than the whole rig and twenty feet of braided line. Also, try to avoid "dragging" your rig across the bottom. Lift it over obstructions as the boat drifts.
Final Thoughts on the High Low Setup
There's a reason the high low rig for sea bass has remained the standard for decades: it just works. It's versatile, easy to tie, and puts your bait right in the kitchen of some of the best-tasting fish in the ocean. Whether you're a seasoned pro or taking the kids out for their first trip, this rig is going to give you the best chance at a successful day on the water.
Next time you're prepping for a trip, take ten minutes to tie up a few of these. Experiment with hook sizes, maybe add a few shiny beads or some glow-in-the-dark tubing if you're feeling fancy, but keep the core concept the same. Keep it simple, keep it on the bottom, and get ready for that double-header. Tight lines!